Leave Dolgellau and rise steeply for a mile, round the bends till you come to the Cross Foxes hotel. The A487 goes to the right towards Cadair Idris Pass, Machynlleth and Aberystwyth, and the A470 begins to climb again towards the east. Up and up to the top of Bwlch Oerddrws pass and then descend steeply round the bends towards Dinas Mawddwy.

In the mountains above Dinas Mawddwy the River Dyfi begins its journey towards Machynlleth and the sea. This is the area of Gwylliad Cochion Mawddwy - the redheaded brigands who were 17th century sheep and cattle rustlers. There are many redheads still living in the area! From Dinas Mawddwy the old road over the mountain to Bala and Llyn Fyrnwy climbs steeply to the top of Bwlch y Groes - Wales' highest mountain pass.

Travel onwards for a mile to the little village of Mallwyd, where Dr John Davies was parish priest in the seventeenth century. At the roundabout, the road to the left - the A458 - goes towards Trallwng (Welshpool), but the A470 follows the River Dyfi to the south through Aberangell and Cemaes and then to the roundabout at Glantwymyn. Here the A489 follows the River Dyfi towards Machynlleth - Owain Glyndwr's town - but the A470 turns east again and follows the railway towards Drenewydd (Newtown), Trallwng (Welshpool) and Shrewsbury over the border.

Reaching the small village of Llanbrynmair brings memories of two of its famous people - Abraham Rees and Samuel Roberts. Abraham Rees, who was born in 1743, was the first editor of Chambers Encyclopaedia. Samuel Roberts, born in 1773, was a famous reformer and minister of religion. In Llanbrynmair, the driver faces a choice of routes: follow the A470 or travel over the mountain on the B4518.

In inclement weather, it is better to stay on the A470 and travel through the village of Carno - passing the Laura Ashley factory on the left - and on to Caersws. The Romans were here about 2000 years ago and this is where the poet John Ceiriog Hughes was station master in the l9th century.

Leave Caersws and turn right at the junction where the A489 goes towards Drenewydd (Newtown). Cross the railway and follow the river Hafren (Severn) towards the south, through the village of Llandinam with its memorial to David Davies, who was born in 1818. Lord Davies made his fortune in railways and coal but became famous as the builder of Barry Docks. Onwards then to Llanidloes.

But when it's a fine day, turn right in Llanbrynmair and follow the B4518. The first part of the route is narrow and winds and climbs, through the village of Llan, till it reaches Penffordd-las (Staylittle). The road then rises and falls like a roller-coaster till it reaches the car park above Llyn Clywedog. This is a good place to stretch those muscles and enjoy some fresh air and a flask of tea! It's also an opportunity also to look down on the reservoir in the valley below and the huge dam in the distance. Beyond the reservoir and over the mountain to the south west is where two famous rivers - Hafren (Severn) and Gwy (Wye) - begin their journeys to the sea. Back onto the A470 and you descend steeply along the side of the reservoir before rising steeply again to the top of the hill and then down all the way to Llanidloes - hoping that the brakes are working!

In Llanidloes, the River Clywedog meets the Hafren on its long journey to the sea. Today, the A470 bypasses Llanidloes but the B4518 comes right into the middle of this historical town. Here, in the middle of the road, is the old, unique market house where John Wesley once preached. This is also the birthplace of the Roman Catholic martyr, Richard Gwyn, who was burned at the stake in Wrexham in 1584. And here, on 30 April 1839, at the Trewythen Arms is the site of one of the Chartists' riots.

On towards Llangurig and turn left at the roundabout where the A44 turns right towards Aberystwyth. This is where the A470 meets the River Gwy (Wye) and it follows the longest river in the South down the beautiful valley towards the old market town of Rhaeadr Gwy (Rhayader). This was one of the centres of the Rebecca Riots in the l9th century but, today, it's the tourists that create a commotion in the town!

Rhaeadr is a town at a crossroads. To the east, the A44 goes towards England and westward the B4574 leads to the lovely Elan Valley - a place to enjoy fishing, walking, cycling, pony trekking and fantastic views. A little to the north east of Rhaeadr lies the ruins of Abbey Cwm Hir, where Llywelyn ap Gruffydd is buried. The A470 runs through Rhaeadr from north to south, and next time we'll go on to Cardiff Bay and journey's end.